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  1. Pierre Koffmann – ‘Pop-up’ Restaurant on the Roof
    Posted On: October 13th, 2009

    Pierre Koffmann – ‘Pop-up’ Restaurant on the Roof

    Hosiery, haberdashery or the restaurant on the roof? The hot dining ticket of 2009 has to be Pierre Koffmann's 'pop-up' that is open in October to coincide with the lamentably under-promoted London restaurant festival. Not simply for the sheer audacity of craning the restaurant on to the roof of Selfridges, but for the chance to enjoy the wonderful cooking...
  2. Lunch at l'Escale
    Posted On: September 30th, 2009

    Lunch at l'Escale

    If you should find yourselves in the midst of the Médoc, in the village of Lamarque, waiting for a ferry to cross the Gironde to Blaye you could do worse than while away an hour or two on the terrace of L'Escale - a refreshingly basic restaurant that is the best place to dine hereabouts. Indeed, it is the only...
  3. Best of the Bunch
    Posted On: September 17th, 2009

    Best of the Bunch

    Every September on the eve of our annual press tasting the principals of the Bunch gather to break bread, discuss topics of mutual interest, such as the Ashes, summer holiday destinations and potential new members, and sample some interesting wines. We have been convening thus for many years now so this is a less formal affair than one might imagine...
  4. The Ambassador’s Provençal Pairings
    Posted On: July 14th, 2009

    The Ambassador’s Provençal Pairings

    An aperitif of refreshing rosé Bandol: Mas de la Rouvière 2007 was accompanied by a delicious amuse bouche of pissaladière. The dry, coral-pink, berry-scented wine was the perfect foil for the warm, flaky, melt-in-your-mouth pastry topped with anchovies, olives and caramelised onions. On my table we fought over the crumbs. Next up was an equally appetising bouillabaisse served with golden...
  5. Dinner with the girls At The Chapel, Bruton
    Posted On: March 27th, 2009

    Dinner with the girls At The Chapel, Bruton

    A weekend visit from a friend in London provided an excellent excuse for an excursion to the recently opened ‘At the Chapel’ restaurant in the quaint market town of Bruton, Somerset.   The cosmopolitan London pal has certain expectations when dining out so I was rather regretting my suggestion that we venture any further than my kitchen, knowing what a struggle...
  6. The Little Chef - Popham Services
    Posted On: February 18th, 2009

    The Little Chef - Popham Services

    We hadn’t been into a Little Chef in over 20 years but the fact that this branch, which we pass regularly on the A303 en route to London from Mere, has recently been under the jurisdiction of uber chef Heston Blumenthal proved too strong an opportunity to resist. The interior here still looks unmistakeably Little Chef-like with lots of bold...
  7. Monday lunch at Café Anglais
    Posted On: February 12th, 2009

    Monday lunch at Café Anglais

    Any lingering doubts that I'd been self-indulgent to accept a last-minute lunch invitation to Café Anglais, London Restaurant of the Year 2008, were dispelled when I bumped into two Yapp customers on the same 94 bus from Shepherd's Bush who were on their way to Le Gavroche.  My karma was further improved at the restaurant when we were seated at...

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